Dining

Super Chupe

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Wednesday, November 04, 2009
Betsy Yagla Photo
A coral-colored red snapper broth forms the base for the Nuevo
Latino-inspired chowder ($8) at Pacifico (220 College St., 203-772-4002,
pacificorestaurants.com). This chowder is a play on chupe, a traditional
soup from Peru and Chile that¹s usually mixed with milk, though Pacifico
doesn¹t use any cream in its version: Nearly all the flavor comes directly
from its seafood.
At Pacifico, the serving size is just right as an appetizer for two. The
soup came steaming hot ‹ perfect for a chilly fall day. It¹s served in a
deep bowl atop a plate that I used to deposit the discarded shells of
mussels and clams, and the tail from my bowl¹s one fat shrimp. After
gobbling up the seafood, I savored the broth, which carries large cilantro
leaves, tomato chunks, slices of green onion and still-crisp corn kernels.
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